Yes dear lawn freaks, here finally some information to soil Analysis 2.0 by rasengrün.de. Take a look at this here the soil analysis as I did it then. I just managed it to finally release them. Here is some essential information. A totally interesting and essential finding was: my pH is too low. So freaks It’s brutally warm again. Yes, dear lawn freaks, there she is the soil analysis 2.0 by rasengruen.de. Because I get a little revenue share on the products of rasengrün.de receive, this is again a small promotional video. Yes, I have to say that and that’s what I stand for because what I have gotten that is super. A fat pamphlet I’ve printed that time. A really fat report to my soil, to what I should do with my lawn here. There are three different ones packages at rasengrün.de: Basic, Premium and Ultimate. Ultimate, the most expensive variant, this here is the result of the most expensive variant. There’s a very special soil assessment in there, which means you fill out a questionnaire and send also photos to rasengruen.de. And then there is a very individual recommendation what you can do to improve your soil to get a nice lawn. Yes, the result has four dimensions, as he wrote so pretty here. First, a soil analysis, that is of course the most important thing, we want to know what is going on with my lawn. Then a fertilization plan, how should I fertilize based on the soil analysis. An irrigation plan, how can I with my water permeability, with my water storage ability in the soil, optimal watering. And then another general care plan. I summed it up a bit, and I’d like to share with you the most interesting findings about my soil here. The first is: my pH is too low. Is there something like that? I thought he is between 6 optimal, which is … let me see … here is the soil analysis, is 4.3, I have a pH of 4.3. That’s shocking. That’s a catastrophe. I have a sandy bottom, I knew that. Of course, I have the risk from nutrient leaching if I water too strong and too much. Then I sponge away the nutrients in the deep soil layers and the lawn can’t get it. And my phosphorus content is a bit high, okay. Then there are recommendations, potassium fertilization emphasized because my potassium deficiency is also recognizable. Yes, the most important ingredients in lawn fertilization are of course nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and also magnesium. He says that my potassium content is very low and also my magnesium supply is too low, as my iron value is very weak. I have before the summer holidays made an iron fertilization. Now lime a little to raise the pH. And in autumn he recommends, I find that very exciting, I did not really know, he recommends to fertilize with the so-called Patent-Kali in the fall. That’s a mixture of magnesium of potassium and magnesium. So everything here nicely summarized, also responded, of course, to my fertilizers and irrigations. He just praise me :). So, then you get a very detailed document to your soil analysis with one appropriate fertilizer plan. That’s what it looks like. First of all the whole readings come. What do my measurement results look like: pH value 4.3 that is too low 6 is ideal. Phosphorus I have 16 target 15 is optimal. Potassium 8 target 10 to 20 is too little. Magnesium 3,2 target 4 to 7 is not enough. Boron too little. Iron 25,7 Should be 30 to 150 so clearly too little. Copper in order. Manganese is badly over-supplied Yes, you can not do much, I think. And zinc is also a bit over-supplied. Yes, there are still some nice tables. I do not know if you can see that, where every value, every result, again exactly is explained. What influences this value, the pH: Common cause of weak green color and leaf chlorosis of grasses, deficient nutrient absorption. Phosphorus: Should one, he writes here, one should reduce due to the Poa annua and that is why I have even before the summer a phosphorus-free Nitrogen-potassium fertilizer spread, without phosphorus. Potassium regulates the water balance I have to go right, right, right in there. So potassium is really a huge topic. Magnesium: It’s too little, then there are the trace nutrients in such a nice overview. So if you know exactly what’s missing from your soil, then there is a fertilizer plan. Once based on the college Weihenstephan-Triesdorf, Fertilization in the garden. Do not fly away here. And once based on commercial lawn fertilizers, so two different plans that’s very cool. And then last but not least exactly the recommendation how much nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and magnesium per year to be fertilized. 23 g/m2 he says here, that fits pretty well. Phosphorus 7g, potassium 12 to 18g, Magnesium 5 g/m2. And on this basis, he recommends the annual fertilization, very cool thing. Yes, the topic of fertilization and nutrients in the soil. Then there is a very detailed irrigation plan and that was also interesting and new to me and indeed … Of course, he goes back to the topic of soil in connection with the irrigation: soil type sand, correct and important basis for irrigation. Then the pH. Then what conditions do you have, have I an irrigation system, have I no irrigation system? What do I use to water, with groundwater, with fresh water, that is very important. How old is the lawn. Do I aerate or scarify or sands? Yes, then exactly explained when, ideally to water and what quantity is to be watered. Yes, and then there are two values ​​that I did not know yet the available field capacity of your turf. What does that mean? That’s the amount of water the soil can hold against gravity. It is 9. Exactly the field capacity says I should not exceed 9 l / m² water in a irrigation. So a maximum of 9 l, not 10 or 15, because of my sandy soil I should not water so much at once. Because the soil is can not record and hold the water at all. Very interesting. And then the water permeability of the soil is of course also dependent from the ground itself. Especially in sandy soils, the water permeability is relatively high. Now I have a value of 20 mm / h, the water seeps through the soil. And what I thought was really cool was how to get the total amount, so now the 9 l / m², to apply in an irrigation phase. And he says I should work after the 20-40-40 rule, that is, 20% of the total amount for the first dose, 20% of the total amount, then wait an hour, then 40% of the total amount, then wait an hour and then again 40% of the total amount. And then I have the soil optimal watered, optimally moistened. That’s cool, I did not know that yet. Well. Depending on the daytime temperatures he indicates the frequency, the cycle, how often to water per week. At 30 degrees, I have to water every other day. Due to the permeable soil, I also find that totally exciting. And the most important thing you need is a rain sensor. Very cool, yes. Then there are a few more general information about renovation, about scarifying, to all other things. And that is already a fat package. So far the topic of soil analysis 2.0, second part. Can be done all year round. One should six weeks after the last fertilization pull his soil sample, and then you can submit the soil analysis to rasengrün.de. Write me into the comments what experience you have with soil analysis. I will of course use this information and consider in my fertilizer and care plan and hope that the lawn will be even more beautiful than it already is. Yes, thank you for watching. That was the little promotional video on soil analysis. Your lawn freak Until next time
Bye