Alright! This is John Kohler with GrowingYourGreens.com.
We have another exciting episode for you. This one is going to be a fun one. Actually,
there’s a viewer named Mike who actually e-mailed me a video with a bunch of questions.
So what I’m going to do is I’m going to show you guys Mike’s predicament and why
he lost hundreds of plants potentially and my suggestions on how he can prevent this
for next time. As you guys know, as gardeners, things don’t always go right. Do 100 percent
of my plants live all of the time? As a matter of fact, I just lost two over there because
I actually over-watered. I think, like, 30 of them made it. But I lost two. But that’s
alright. Are you going to let the two – “Oh, I lost two plants!” – get you down? No,
man! Screw it! Don’t worry about it! I’m using the soil in there to put in a new batch
and grow some new plants. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. So let’s hear from Mike
and hear about his story, and what’s going on and how I can help him with that. So, let’s
go to that clip. Mike: Hey John, this is Mike. I want to thank
you very much for taking your time to check out this video and giving some gardening advice.
First off, I’m going to be sharing with you what I did first with my garden. I bought
them like probably in March or April. I started sprouting them inside. I did tomatoes, a whole
bunch of different herbs, and I sprouted them in this tray, this heated tray. I don’t
know if you recommend these. I used these to sprout them up with. John: All right, Mike. It looks like you got
a couple of things right. Number one, especially if you’re growing tomatoes when it’s still
cold out, you want to use something like the heat mat to keep it warm for your babies.
If you can’t afford a heat mat, I think they’re like 20, 30 bucks, maybe even somewhere
kind of a little bit warm, like the top of your refrigerator, can be used to germinate
some plants. The other thing you’re using, because you had those little trays, I’d
recommend instead putting the peat pellets in the trays, which can get quite expensive.
Another thing about the peat pellets, they have this netting on here. You want to rip
off this netting before you plant the plants. Because if you leave the netting on, it’s
going to stunt your plant’s growth. They say that the roots are supposed to grow through
this. I have seen that it still does hinder root growth, although it can grow through
this stuff. But if you have those little planting trays like you do, you want to get what’s
called a sterile soil medium. This is what’s optimal in my opinion. So we got this stuff
right here. This is actually called the Promix, and basically, this is peat moss and some
perlite mixed in here. This is basically something that’s going to hold the water so that your
plants can germinate. So far, everything looks really good. Mike: And the tomatoes did pretty good. But
the herbs, they seem like they always kind of die in here. I don’t know what I’m
doing wrong with them. And the tomatillos – those seemed to die too. John: So, aside from that, you were doing
it right. You had a little greenhouse thing, kind of like this thing right here, and I’ve
got some seeds that germinated and some that didn’t. I think I need to transplant these
guys out. It’s important to have a nice cover or dome to keep the proper moisture
level in there for your plants. Now, it’s also very important, as you said, some of
your tomatoes made it, but your tomatillos and your herbs did not. Why did that happen?
Well, probably the main thing is too much moisture or too little moisture. It sounds
like to me probably like it might be too much moisture. It’s very important not to flood
out your plants and not give them too much water. Maybe probably some of you might think,
“Oh, I love my plants. Let me give them more water.” But, you know, they could drown,
like you could drown if you’re tossed in a swimming pool and you’re half drunk. You
won’t be able to breathe and you’ll drown. So, I don’t exactly know what happened in
your specific situation, but I would encourage you to experiment. You successfully know how
to germinate tomatoes now. So next time, do it a little bit differently with the tomatillos
and the herbs to see if you could get them to grow as well. Mike: But the tomatoes worked out pretty good.
And then when they got pretty big, I switched them to these, and to a bigger one too. John: Moving on up! So you got that right,
Mike. You want to definitely move your plants up as they kind of get too large and outgrow
their containers. I don’t really have any baby plants right now, but I do have these
guys here. I actually bought these little plants. These are little pepper plants that
I bought for $0.69 on clearance in little 3 ½ inch containers. Once I got these home,
what I did was I immediately moved them up and I moved them up into like 1 gallon containers.
So actually I think these were bought at two different points, but I still need to move
this guy up. But as soon as you can, you want to move your plants up into a larger container
so that it will give them a larger home to grow in. That’s definitely very important.
So you might be moving these up into larger containers inside your house before you bring
them outside. So depending on the crop and when you’re going to plant outside, I might
recommend 1-2-3, moving it up three times, like moving it up out of that little six-pack
size tray you had into a 4-inch, and then let it grow inside more, and then finally
move it into the gallon. Once you move it into the gallon, you probably should plant
it out in the gallon. I don’t like to really plant things out in larger than gallon size
in my garden personally. But it all depends on your timing. If your weather is nice enough
to plant them out now, you want to plant them out without moving them up to the larger container
if at all possible. Mike: I’ll show you what I got in the garden
right now. So I what did here was I rototilled the garden. It was really hard. I know you
mentioned before that you shouldn’t rototill anything. But the ground was so hard, I didn’t
know what to do. It just seemed like what I had to do. If you could make a video about
why I shouldn’t rototill, that would be awesome. I didn’t really catch that the
last time I saw you. John: Auughhh!! You rototilled, dude! What
are you thinking? Rototilling, in my opinion, is like a last resort if you can’t do anything
else. I’m not a big fan of rototilling. Why you don’t want to rototill is I’m
mixing up some soil in my wheelbarrow here. Say this is nice hard compacted soil or say
it’s been sitting the garden forever. It’s like inside your house. You have a nice house,
your bedrooms, and in the places, all the furniture’s in there, and the drawers are
in there. Say some criminals ransacked your house and they’re looking for stuff. They’re
going to come into your house, pull out the drawers, look for the money, the cash in your
drawers, rip your bed up, pull all of your clothes out of your closet and throw them
all over the floor. It would be all like discombobulated, right? When you rototill the soil – brrrmmm,
like you’re rototilling the soil, it’s totally messing up the soil structure, right?
You might be chopping up earthworms in there. You’re going to definitely be destroying
fungal heifer, which is like the network of fungus in the soil. You’re going to definitely
be disturbing the microbes and the bacteria in there that are definitely part of the soil.
So by basically rototilling, you’re going to disturb the soil and basically create imbalance.
Like if thieves came to your house and tried to ransack it, you know. You wouldn’t like
to come home to thieves ransacking your house. It would be a mess and you would have to clean
that shit up before you could live your life. The soil has to now basically rebuild itself
before plant life will fully thrive in there. Another reason for not rototilling because
you had some grass down there, it looked like, and, once you rototilled it, you may have
some ground, and now the ground is a prime opportunity, you know, open ground is a prime
opportunity for weeds to grow and things to grow in. You might have dug up uncovered seeds
when you rototilled, and now seeds can drop in and start to grow. Now because you rototilled,
weeds are going to grow there. So that’s definitely not a good thing. So what I recommend
instead of rototilling is I recommend what’s called sheet mulching. So let me demonstrate
that. So what I would have done instead in your
situation – and it’s going to be a lot easier, you don’t have to rent a rototiller
or buy a rototiller to do this. Say this is the grass. Say we have the grass right here.
You’re just going to take cardboard and you’re going to lay the cardboard on top
of the grass. And then on top of the cardboard, you’re going to build your raised bed garden.
Now I like raised bed gardens because you can control what’s going in there, what’s
in the soil. When you’re just growing in rototilled dirt or soil in your back yard,
you don’t know the kind of nutrition in there. You don’t know if it’s the right
pH. You don’t know pretty much anything, and you’re kind of gambling if it’s going
to work or not. And, yes, you can do it. If you do choose to do that, definitely I would
recommend getting a soil test and adding some good organic compost or organic matter and
also the trace minerals and also the soil microbiology into there. But I would much
rather somebody, especially if it’s their first time doing a garden, build a raised
bed, because you’re going to have a much higher level of success without all of the
headaches, and then you wouldn’t have made this video so I could answer it for you. So
you’re going to sheet mulch it. You just put cardboard over the ground all the way
where you’re going to build your raised bed. Then you’re going to simply take some
wood, some stones, some wine bottles turned upside down in the ground and stuck together,
and basically form a frame. You’re going to have edges on it like a frame, and wood
is the easiest thing. If you go to Home Deport or Lowes, they’ll even cut it for you. Get
some nice 2 x 6, 2 x 8, or 2 x 12 and make a frame, and then you’re going to put soil
on top of the cardboard that you’re going to bring in and you’re going to do what’s
called a Mel’s Mix? Mike: Also, I didn’t really do anything
with the dirt. There’s a couple of things that I know you recommended. I had some dirt
from last year, so I expected that it would be fine. John: You didn’t do nothing with the dirt?
Dude, what are you thinking? All right, man. There’s a really good movie called Dirt:
The Movie. Check it out if you haven’t seen it. There’s more to dirt than just dirt.
I mean, to me, this is soil. Soil, to me, is life. Literally, you become the soil. Think
about that. You become the soil. Whatever you eat is coming out of the soil, that becomes
you, and, at the end, you become the soil. Soil is life, because everything that you’re
eating is coming from the soil, including if you’re eating animals. Animals got fed
on food produced in the soil. So everything comes from the soil. Soil is the key thing
you want to remember in your garden. Much like if you want to build muscles when you’re
working out, you’re not going to build muscles if you just hopscotch, or walk around, or
just sit in front of the computer all day, right? You know that to build muscles, you
got to put some exercise into it. So just like that, you need to work on building your
soil because it is that important to grow high quality vegetables, much like lifting
weights to build your muscles so you can be strong. I like to just haul compost bags around
myself. But, nonetheless, you get the idea. Soil is super critical, super important. So
when you fill up your raised beds or when you’re going to grow food, you want to invest
in the soil. You want to dedicate the most amount of money to your soil. As a matter
of fact, I spent half of the money in my front yard garden to bring in like almost $1,000
worth of soil. People are thinking, “Man, you spent $1,000 on soil, John?” Yes, it’s
that important, man! Check it out. You buy the soil pretty much once, and, yeah, I happen
to buy a little bit of soil here and there, once I made that one investment, I could grow
food for years and years and years on that one investment! In my opinion, spending $1,000
or close to $1,000 on soil one time is a much better investment than putting $1,000 in a
bank, because I guess with the rate of interest these days, I probably would only have made
20 bucks. But, meanwhile, I’m growing thousands of dollars of produce that money can’t buy,
high quality produce at that, in my garden. So you want to get a good soil, in my opinion.
I’m mixing up this soil here, and I’m putting a whole bunch of different ingredients
in there. I’m putting in things like the rock dust, the mycorrhiza. I’m using some
of the John & Bobs products, the soil optimizer, to put some nutrients in my soil. I have other
videos where I talk more about the soil. I’m not going to get specifically into that, but
I always encourage you guys to use plant-based derived compost. Many composts may be derived
from animal manures. I like to look at nature for answers. Like if we’re in a forest,
and, in the forest, all of the trees would be dropping their leaves, and all of those
leaves would be on the forest floor, and they would compost down into mulch, and then they
would finally break down into compost. Yeah, the animals would be running by and they would
be pooping and stuff, but the majority of the compost at the forest floor is from decayed
plant matter, with some animal manures in there. Unfortunately, many composts you may
buy at the store are derived from animal manures because it’s literally somebody else’s
shit that they’re giving to you, and I don’t like dealing with anybody else’s crap besides
my own. I think the plant matter is a much better way to get compost, number one. In
the Mel’s Mix is what you’re going to mix up and put in your raised beds are three
things: number one is the compost, which we talked about; number two you want to use a
coconut coir or peat most that’s going to hold some water; and, finally, you want to
use some vermiculite. Those three things are available at most nursery centers and big
box stores that you can put in addition to what Mel’s mix. Then I recommend a few more
things. Number one I like the worm castings, very important. Number two I like some kelp
meal, and number three I’m going to say today azomite or rock dust or the trace minerals.
That’s probably a critical factor that you want to use above anything else I said besides
those three ingredients, the rock dust. You want to add the trace minerals back into the
soil. In addition, you also want to add the soil biologics. Soil biologics are like when
I use the compost tea, either the Boogie Brew or something like the John & Bob’s stuff
here. You want to check out a video I did. The title was like “Lowest Price for Compost
Tea and Rock Dust Delivered.” Of course, I also want to say is that if you don’t
buy all of these things, plants will still grow. I mean, look, your grass was growing
there for years, and now you’re planting a garden, but it’s not growing as well.
Why is that? Well, I’m not there to see your soil, to see what’s going on with it,
but I can only say is that you want to get a soil test. Some plants and things will grow
in certain soils when they won’t grow in others. Tomatoes in general probably need
a little bit more nutritious soil than what grass would require, for instance. So you
want to get in all dialed in, so you could ask your local university for a soil test
if you choose not to bring in your own soil, because that is optional. You don’t need
to build a raised bed. You don’t need to bring in your own soil. It can just be a little
bit more complex to figure out what’ve you got and what you need to do to make it work
for you. And yes, you mentioned adding in some peat moss. I don’t know if that’s
going to help in your situation for what you’ve got right now. What I would recommend is bringing
in some organic compost and maybe a little bit of peat moss too and try to duplicate
that mixture and try to mix it in the top of the soil around the roots. Because your
tomatoes made it, you could actually pile that up on the tomatoes up the stalk and actually
bury them a little bit and actually they’ll root more so they’ll actually have good
nutrition despite the maybe poor nutrition below. Also, I don’t know the quality of
your soil. Is it clay? Is it sand? Most places unfortunately do not have the optimal soil
type for growing vegetables. It depends on where you live, of course. So that’s why,
once again, I like to build in a raised bed that’s isolated so I bring in the soil so
that I exactly know what the plants are growing in so I can have the utmost level of success. Mike: So I put them in. I put them in, and
then the next day I water them really good. And then the next day, I come back and they’re
laying flat on the ground like they’re almost dead. So I was wondering – half of them,
I would say half of them, well about 75 percent of them survived – is there any way you
could make a video if you have a problem like this, how do you revive your plants? John: Revive your plants??!! What do you think,
I could take my plants and give it mouth-to-mouth??!! [breathing noises] It’s not going to work
to revive your plants, man. Once your plants are down, like wilted out, they might come
back, but if they’re really out, down and out, they’re gone. I do know that you can
revive people if their heart stops and stuff, but you don’t want that to happen to you,
so eat healthy to avoid all of that stuff. Let’s talk about what you probably didn’t
do that you didn’t mention about bringing plants from inside to outside. Say you’re
in the middle of winter in Chicago, right? It’s brrr, cold. I was there this winter
actually, walking around in the snow. Maybe inside a building, it’s nice and warm. When
you go outside, you’re shocked by the cold. Like jumping into a cold swimming pool is
the perfect example, right? Do you like to just cannonball into that swimming pool if
it’s totally cold? No, you’re like, “Auughh! You’ll freeze! You’ll get cold!” But
once you’re past that initial shock, it’s all good, right? What I like to do is maybe
tip-toe slowly into the pool, and I mean really slowly. I take a long time to get into a pool
or any kind of cold body of water. I’ll get in really slow so that I more adjusted
to that . And we need to also do that with our plants. We can’t just take this and
put it into the swimming pool or take it from inside where it’s nice and warm to outside
to where it could be colder or it could be windier or it could be more arid or it could
be more wet. We need to basically do what’s called hardening off our plants. Hardening
off is not what happens to you after you’re done making love to your special person. But
it’s like taking your plants off and basically making sure that they’re hard, like right
before you’re going to get it on with your special person. But you want to make sure
that they’re hard so that they can handle the elements outside. So there’s a few ways
that you can harden things off. So what I’ve done here is I’m underneath a shady tree
here. I took a large pot here and set a pallet on it actually. On top of the pallet, I just
have my plants growing. So I have my plants underneath the big shade of the tree, so it’s
not like direct sun. I don’t know if you planted in direct sun. That could also be
a problem because plants get shocked. I like to take my plants from inside to outside in
stages. Here’s some other methods you can do besides bringing them out underneath some
shade, and deep shade, not just mild shade, but deep shade. At least they could get adjusted
to the climate outside while not being in full sun. You might want to maybe bring your
plants out for a couple of hours each day. You know, maybe the first day bring them out
for two hours, let them get some sun, but then bring them back inside so they’re kind
of adjusting to the different climate element outside. Another method you might do, sometimes
I might bring them out underneath a big awning and kind of let them stay there in the shade
and just leave them there, depending on how old your plant starts are. Baby plants, like
some of these guys back here that are literally just like little seedlings still coming up,
these guys would be much more affected more easily by the weather than something that’s
much more established, like one of this pregno tree collards that I propagated from cuttings.
You want to harden off your plants. Bring them outside a couple of hours each day and
then bring them back inside and keep doing that for a while to get them adjusted. Finally,
leave them out underneath something shady like I am here. Mike: And how do I, how do I – I have some
watermelon growing in my other garden, and I found that I put them in the ground, and
they die like almost the next day. Are there any tips to prevent transplant shock? John: So, my tips for preventing transplant
shock. Number one, you want to move things on up, like I talked about earlier. Out of
the little small cells, move them up to a little 4 inch, and then maybe even up to a
gallon, and then plant them out. The more established the plant is, the less it’s
going to be prone to shock. Little baby plants, like little babies, are more prone to being
shocked than somebody that’s nice, big, and strong. Especially like imagine punching
your baby in the stomach – I don’t recommend doing that! Or imagine, “Mike, I could punch
you in the stomach, and you’re tight, man, and you just take it. Uh! Uh! Uh!” But that’s
like your plants. Your plants are fragile when they’re young. Like this eggplant is
pretty hardened off because it’s just so mature and it’s already been living outside
for a while, and I just need to plant it in like this raised bed, that I’m going to
do probably in just a little bit. The next thing you want to do when transplanting
is you want to minimally disturb the roots. Today, we’re going to transplant this little
guy. We’ll pull this guy out, and check this out man. This is pretty dang root-bound
in there. You don’t want to damage the roots too much. Because this is root-bound, I would
actually pick at this a lot, pick at this a little bit actually, and pick out these
roots so that they’re not going to continue to wrap around. I would probably put some
mycorrhiza on there and then plant these guys out. The other thing you want to remember
is if you’re planting from pots, right before you transplant, you want to water the pot
very well, and then you want to pull them out, and then you want to plant it immediately.
You don’t want to pull all 20 out and leave the roots exposed to the air, because if the
roots dry out, that could be the end of those roots, and then the plant would have to regenerate
its roots, which is not a fun thing. It’s like you trying to regenerate your arm if
you had to. I don’t know if I could or not. Anyways, you want to keep the roots moist.
So, once again, water before you pull it out, tease the roots out like you teased your hair
in the ‘80s, and then I put some mycorrhiza on there. Then I plant it in the raised bed,
and then I would water it once again after I got it planted in there. Another thing you
might want to do, depending on the size of the plant, to always help prevent transplant
shock, is if the plant has less leaves or less foliage, if you pulled off a couple,
it may be more resistant to transplant shock. I generally will do this with my tomatoes,
all the lower branches I’ll just pull out, and actually I’ll bury the tomato maybe
up to this depth here. I’ll also do that on my peppers. On my eggplants, I don’t
generally bury it deeper than where it’s at. My final method for preventing transplant
shock is right after I plant it, I’ll water it, maybe the next day, I’ll water it in
with Boogie Brew Compost Tea. Boogie Brew Compost Tea, from my experience, helps prevent
transplant shocks because it provides the nutrition that the plants need and they’ll
actually also recover faster. The bed right over yonder, I planted it out, I watered it,
and then the next day I treated it all with Boogie Brew. As you guys can see, all of these plants in
here are doing really well. When I planted these guys, they were kind of wilting down.
And that leads me to another tip, that is, don’t plant in full sun. Try to avoid planting
in full sun, especially tender leafy greens that are still rather young. These were planted
from six packs right into the ground, which, depending on the age of them, I don’t necessarily
recommend. But I did it and what I did was actually because I planted in the full sun,
these plants were instantly wilting. When that happens, that’s a warning sign to you.
What I did was I put a bamboo stake here in the middle and I draped over a large shade
cloth over this whole bed. It almost looked like a little circus tent in here. So I shaded
these guys out the first full day they were in, and then, at night, I took it off and
then they could kind of adjust overnight to being here because they were actually underneath
the shaded area. Finally, I treated them with Boogie Brew, and, yeah, they were still folded
over, but then finally, they popped back and popped erect, and, now, I don’t think I
actually lost any plants doing that method. But, in general, I recommend that you plant
not in the middle of the heat of the day, maybe more towards the afternoon, towards
the evening, which would be my best time to plant because then the plants could more adjust
to the night cycle and then wake up in the morning after they’ve been in the ground
for many hours. Mike: I have some peas that I sprouted indoors.
I don’t know if that was a bad idea, because I put them in and they all died on me. John: So Mike, sorry to hear about your peas
that didn’t make it. Some things can be started inside and transplant them out. But
some things can be direct-seeded in the garden. I always recommend to you guys to direct-seed
whenever possible, because it’s a lot easier and then you don’t have to deal with the
hassle of transplanting, moving things up and moving them out, and carting them off
because they’re just in nature and they’re going to germinate and grow in this place
because they’re just always going to be growing outside, then they’re going to be
accustomed to the weather outside, because that’s what they’ve got to deal with day
in and day out. Direct-seeding versus transplants – what’s better? Some plants can be easily
direct-sown outside, such as the onions and the garlic that I have right over there. I
just planted them from seeds or from little bulbs, and they grow. Things like the peas
can totally be direct-seeded outside. I have some direct-seeded tomato plants coming up.
One of the things besides direct-seeding is letting plants go to flower and drop the seeds.
I grew tomatoes over in that bed over there, and I missed a couple of tomatoes. They dropped,
and the seeds burst out and stayed in the soil until the following summer, and now they’re
coming up. I have cilantro that went to flower, dropped seeds, and now it’s coming up. I
have tree collards that dropped seeds, and now they’re coming up. I really like the
direct-seed method because especially when the plants are dropping the seeds, they just
have to grow on their own. My goal is to have a garden that is 100 percent direct-seeded
by nature instead of me. That takes all of my labor out of it, and, man, that’s a smart
way to garden. Mike: Also, is there anything else I can improve
on here with my garden here? John: That’s a big question I get a lot
– how can I improve my garden? Well, the number one way I say to improve your garden
is through education. Lack of knowledge will cause a lot of issues like not hardening off
your plants and not doing the proper procedures, because that’s what gardening is about to
a large extent, is following proper procedures. Watering procedures, soil, nutrient procedures,
how to start seed procedures – this is all procedural, and maybe that’s why I’m kind
of good at it because I like procedures and doing things in the right order so you get
the good results. But, nonetheless, watch all of my videos.
Subscribe my channel and check out old videos. Maybe watch one video a night that you haven’t
watched before to expand and learn how to grow better. That being said, besides the
education, there are two main nutrients that I think everybody should be using in their
garden besides the soil mix that I talked about earlier. Once again, that’s the compost,
the coconut coir or peat moss and vermiculite, and that’s these two guys. Number one, I’m
a big fan of the worm castings, so these are some Edgar Winn organic worm castings that
I like. This will add some of the microbial activity to your soil. In addition, another
thing that’s very important of course that I’m really big on is the azomite or rock
dust for the full spectrum of trace minerals. Whether you’re going to use the azomite
or the guy green glacial rock dust, which I also use, another different kind of rock
dust, or something like the C-90 or the ocean solution, ocean-grown solution that I showed
a couple of episodes back, I think those definitely could improve any garden that you put them
into hands-down without a doubt. Another thing that’s very important is to include the
beneficials, the microbes and the fungi, in your garden. The easiest way to do that is
to buy some of the products that I recommend to you guys in my show. I recommend taking
a look at my past videos. There is one entitled “Lowest Delivered Prices on Rock Dust and
Compost Tea,” and that video is chock full of all of the microbial inoculants that I
recommend that you guys use to get the life back in the soil. It’s not about the soil;
it’s about the life in your soil. That’s the most important thing. We don’t want
to be using these fertilizers, 10-10-10s and all of this kind of stuff. We want to build
our soils, because there is actually enough nutrients in the soils. It’s just unlocking
the nutrients with the microbes and with the trace minerals that basically will provide
your plant the nutrition it needs so you don’t have to continually feed 10-10-10 fertilizers
or 12-10-12 fertilizers like that. I want to get away from using fertilizers because
fertilizers don’t necessarily make the soil fertile. They just keep add fertility to it.
But think about in nature and in the forest. In the forest, is there a pixie flying around
sprinkling 10-10-10 fertilizer? No, man! The forest drops the leaves, the animals poop,
and it all composts, it all breaks down, and that’s what feeds and grows these huge rain
forests that are getting cut down at enormous rates, that I’m not a big fan of, for things
like palm oil and growing more animals that I don’t think we need to eat in such mass
quantities that are being eaten today. Mike: So, that’s all of my big questions
that I’ve got for you. Hopefully, you can answer them and help a lot of people out there.
I’ll catch you at the Woodstock Food Festival this year. See you John. Thanks. John: So Mike, I hoped that helped you. Originally,
when I saw your Facebook post, it said, “I lost over 100 plants. They didn’t make it.”
I was like, “Oh my gosh! That’s messed up, man!” And I said, “Hey, make a video
and I’ll answer it for you.” But you know what? I’m glad you’re gardening, glad
you got your foot in the door, and glad you messed up, because by messing up, you’re
going to learn exactly what you don’t want to do next time. You don’t want to do exactly
the same thing you did to get the same results. That being said, you did do some things excellent.
You started some tomatoes, and you were a success! You started over 100 tomato plants!
Man, that’s totally amazing! And everybody could do that. Maybe you should make a video
on how you did it to share with everybody so that they could do it too. And then you’ll
dial in how to start the tomatillos and the herbs for next time. Maybe it’s too much
water, maybe it’s not enough water. I don’t exactly know because I’m not there. But,
it’s great you’re starting to garden, just getting into it, because you learn as
you grow. Seriously, people learn as they grow. I always encourage everybody out there
to start because without starting and without messing up, you’re never going to learn
how to do it properly. That being said, I encourage you guys to watch my videos because
I share a lot of tips that are solid on how I do things which have worked for me and they
could also work for you. So, once again, Mike, I’m super glad that you’re growing your
garden. This video will help you and also help others that may have had this challenge
or may not have even started their garden yet, to let them know it’s alright to screw
up and then to learn from your screw-ups so that you don’t do it again and modify and
change what you’re doing so that you can have optimal success next time. I’m so glad
that pretty soon you’ll be having some kick-ass tomatoes. Maybe I’ll have to visit you and
eat some of your tomatoes too. So hopefully you guys enjoyed this episode. Once again,
my name is John Kohler with GrowingYourGreens.com. We’ll see you next time, and, remember,
keep on growing!